It's Time to Sow Fall Spinach
It's Time to Sow Fall Spinach
Although it is still hot outside, the calendar tells me that fall is just a few weeks away and it’s time to do my first task of the season – sowing spinach seeds. Spinach is one of my favorite cool weather vegetables and to get a good stand it’s important to sow early – just before the heat breaks. I live in the mid-South, but gardeners in other areas of the country can grow a fall crop of spinach too. It needs 45 days to mature before the first frost date in your area and with the use of cold frames or frost blankets its possible to push past this date as well.
Spinach seeds can be sown in rows directly into the beds. In containers, broadcast the seeds over the entire soil surface. Cover them with a thin layer of soil about ½-inch deep and water. Then keep the bed consistently moist. If the plants are slow to grow or the leaves are too pale, feed them with a fertilizer that is high in nitrogen following the directions on the package.
When ready to harvest either cut the entire plant off at the ground, or pick outer leaves that are dark green in color and about 3 to 6 inches long. Wash and store spinach in an air tight container in the refrigerator. It will keep for about a week.
This year I’m trying a variety called Bloomsdale Longstanding. I grew this in my spring garden with excellent results. It is a heat tolerant spinach that kept producing well after the temperatures started to warm up. I had such a good crop that I decided to try it again this fall. This variety produces dark green, thick and heavily crinkled leaves that are perfect for pairing with apples, using in sautés or wilted salads.
Side Bar: If you’d like to try something different plant New Zealand spinach. Although it is not a true spinach, it has the great same flavor and the vining habit and sharply pointed leaves make it a unique addition to the garden. It’s also highly heat tolerant, continuing to flourish even after summer heat sets in.
Pear and Spinach Salad
Vinaigrette: • 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar • 1/4 cup honey • 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil • 1/4 cup water • 2 cloves fresh garlic • 1 teaspoon lemon pepper • 1/2 teaspoon salt
Salad: • 2 bundles of fresh spinach • 2 pears or oranges • lemon juice •1 red onion • 1 cup walnuts (or substitute pecans or almonds)
Instructions
Begin by making the vinaigrette. To the vinegar add the honey and extra virgin olive oil. Next add the water and blend.
Now for a little spice. I like to use about 2 cloves of crushed fresh garlic, 1 teaspoon of lemon pepper and about 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Then I just stir the mixture until it's well blended. There's just something about the chemistry of the honey and the balsamic vinegar. When they come together they are the perfect accent for the spinach salad. Wait to add the dressing until you're ready to serve the salad and then just toss it altogether.
To make the salad start by rinsing and removing the stems from the fresh spinach. Thinly slice a couple of fresh pears. To keep the pears from turning brown squeeze a touch of lemon juice over them.
To the pears add some thinly sliced rings of red onion. Mix the pears and onions into the spinach.
To give the salad some extra crunch toast walnuts on a baking sheet for about 15 minutes in the oven at 300 degrees. You can use walnuts, pecans or almonds.
|
Windowsill Salad Garden
Windowsill Salad Garden
This past November has been very mild weather wise in my garden, but now that December is here we are sure to get a hard freeze. This will bring to an end the bounty of fall lettuce I’ve been harvesting. But I can continue to enjoy homegrown salad greens; I just move the lettuce garden indoors.
Because lettuce and other salad greens germinate so quickly, it’s easy to grow a salad garden inside on a sunny windowsill. What I like to do is grow a mix of “baby greens,” which means I harvest the leaves before the plant matures. I mix these baby greens in with store bought lettuce for a flavorful salad or snip off a few leaves to top off sandwiches.
Micro greens are another way to enjoy fresh lettuce during the winter months. Micro greens are harvested when they have about 4 leaves. They may be small, but they are very flavorful.
Growing baby salad greens and micro greens couldn’t be easier. Simply sow the seeds in sterile potting soil, cover them with a dusting of soil and keep the seeds moist by lightly misting them with water daily. Keep the pots in a warm location until they begin to sprout and then move them to a sunny window. If the plants look spindly or anemic, they need more light. The baby salad greens may require as much as 12 hours of light for healthy growth. A grow light is an easy remedy for this problem. Hang the lights about 6 to 12 inches above the plants.
Micro greens are ready to harvest in about 14 days. Clip the seedlings off close to the soil. Baby salad greens will be ready in about 3 to 4 weeks. Trim them off at the base, starting with the outside leaves first.
For more outdoor living and gardening tips visit www.pallensmith.com.
SIDEBAR: Good Choices for Baby Greens: lettuce, arugula, basil, spinach, chard, red mustard
Good Choices for Micro Greens: radish, broccoli, lettuce, mustard greens, peas, sunflowers
|
Harvesting and Drying Gourds
Harvesting and Drying Gourds
One plant that I always make room for in my garden is the gourd vine. Like moonflowers and morning glories this rapidly growing, sprawling vine is perfect for summer interest. Grown on fences or trellises gourds produce large leaves, yellow or white flowers and, of course, funky shaped fruits.
This year I planted Ferry-Morse Bird House Gourds (Lagenaria sicerana). These are the type that look like they have been squeezed in the middle creating bulbous ends. I sowed the seeds in early summer beside two pyramid trellises, which the vines quickly covered.
Now that summer is over it will soon be time to harvest the fruits and set them out to dry.
The best way to tell if a gourd is ready to harvest is by look and feel. The vine will begin to die back and the skin of the gourd will be hard and pale. An immature gourd feels fleshy and is bright green.
I’ve read conflicting advice about harvesting gourds before or after the first frost. Some people contend that fruits should be gathered before a frost while others maintain that you can leave them on the vine to dry, even after a hard freeze. Experience has taught me that when you harvest them depends on if the gourds are fully ripened. Frosts will damage immature fruits, but these won’t dry successfully anyway. Because I was influenced by parents who grew up during the Depression and didn’t throw anything away, I can’t bear to waste any gourds so I collect the immature fruits and use them as temporary decorations. I leave the mature gourds on the vine until I do my fall clean up, which is usually after the first killing frost.
The only other draw back to leaving gourds out after a frost is that the cold temperatures will damage the seeds. So if you are hoping to save seeds for sowing next year, bring in all your gourds before the first frost.
When you are ready to harvest, it’s important to cut gourds from the vine rather than pulling or twisting them away. Use sharp pruners so you can make a nice, clean cut. And leave about 2 inches of stem intact. This little bit of stem is important because it facilitates the evaporation of water. Gourds are about 90 percent water. When they dry moisture escaped through both the porous skin and the stem.
This next step isn’t mandatory, but it does help. Gently clean the gourds to remove dirt and wipe them down with a diluted bleach solution – 2 tablespoons bleach to 1 gallon of water. This process removes bacteria and helps to prevent rotting.
Gourds should be dried in an area that has good air circulation. This is very important. In fact, they can be left outside to dry. Just remember that the cold will damage the seeds. I dry mine in the garage. Place them on a card board mat, with enough space between them so that they are not touching.
Now, here’s the hard part. You need to leave them alone. Aside from rotating them occasionally and removing the ones that are rotting, let them dry for a month or more. Large, heavy gourds may take as long as 6 months to completely dry.
You may find that a crust or mold appears on the gourds as they dry. This is normal and not a sign that they have gone bad. After they have completely dried wash them in warm soapy water with a steel wool pad. This will remove the residue, although the mold will leave behind interesting patterns. Be careful when handling the gourds if you are allergic to mold.
Once the gourds are clean, wipe them with a cloth and let them dry thoroughly. You can lightly sand the shell with a fine sandpaper to prepare it for painting, varnishing or waxing. Just be aware that sanding might leave faint scratches behind.
I like to bring out the natural tones of large gourds. What works for me and gives them a nice shine is just an ordinary paste wax.
For more outdoor living and gardening tips visit www.pallensmith.com.
|
Seed Mania
Seed Mania
When it comes to creating a sense of hopeful expectation there is not much in the gardening world that can compare to a packet of seeds. There is so much promise in such a little package. At the moment I have a stack of new seed catalogs to browse through and daydream about all the vegetables, flowers and herbs that I will grow in my garden this year. Because it is such a small investment, it is easy to go overboard with the number of varieties I purchase. I call this condition seed mania. Last year I bought seeds for nine different varieties of lettuce and six varieties of tomatoes. I knew I didn't have the space to grow all this, but I wanted the opportunity to try. If you haven't already placed your seed order, be sure to do so soon, especially if you have your heart set on any specialty seeds or new varieties. These tend to be available in limited quantities and go quickly.
Whatever form your seed mania takes, whether it is browsing seed catalogs for new additions to your garden, shopping at your favorite local garden center or exchanging tried and true favorites with friends, I hope that you enjoy it. At no other time in the year does the garden hold so much promise.
Ferry-Morse Seed Company is the official seed supplier for the Garden Home Retreat. Below is a list of seeds that I have ordered.
1. Arugula 2. ‘Blue Bedder’ Salvia 3. ‘Crimsonia’ Dianthus 4. ‘Dwarf Blue Curled ‘Kale 5. ‘Extra Triple Curled’ Parsley 6. ‘Gold Dust’ Alyssum 7. ‘Green Curlee’ Endive 8. ‘King Henry the Eighth’ Hollyhock 9. ‘Michihili’ Chinese Cabbage 10. ‘Mixed Varieties’ Cactus 11. Orange Butterfly Flowers 12. ‘Oriental Orange Scarlet’ Poppy 13. ‘Oriental Red’ Poppy 14. ‘Purple Peony’ Poppy 15. ‘Shirohada’ Burdock 16. ‘Summer Carnival Blush Pink’ Hollyhock 17. ‘Summer Carnival Rosy Red’ Hollyhock 18. ‘Summer Carnival Yellow’ Hollyhock 19. ‘Summer Pastels’ Achillea 20. ‘Violet’ Cathedral Bells
|
Sweet Peas
Sweet Peas
I covet sweet peas for their heavenly fragrance and old-fashioned simplicity. These little vining flowers are a delight to see and smell. Sadly, they can be a tricky annual for me to grow. They prefer cool temperatures, but won't withstand a frost. If I sow them in early spring in my zone 7 garden they are likely to get wiped out by a late frost. Unfortunately, mid-South springs tend to be short, so if I try sowing them any later the plants melt in the heat before they have time to bloom.
With the addition of my new greenhouse it's a whole new ball game. I can start the seeds in the greenhouse in February and move the pots outdoors after the threat of frost has passed. This will give them the head start they need to bloom before spring ends.
Gardeners in climates with long, cool springs can sow sweet peas outdoors as soon as the threat of frost has passed. If you are like me and need to first sow them indoors, get them started about 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost date in your area.
To encourage good seed germination it is best to soak the seeds in water a few hours before you sow them. This helps to soften the outer covering of the seed.
Provide support as soon as clinging tendrils are formed. I find that little twigs are perfect for the job.
When it comes time to transplant your sweet peas, choose a spot that receives full sun. They like a sweet soil with a pH of 7 or 8, so if you know that your soil is acidic add garden lime to make it more alkaline. Be sure to following the package directions on the garden lime bag. Sweet peas have relatively extensive roots, so the soil should be friable at least 24 inches deep.
Provide immediate support for your young seedlings. Metal can get hot on warm spring days, so try twine or twigs.
Once they are up and flowering, you will want to do everything you can to keep the plants full of blooms. One of the best ways to encourage continuous flowering is to cut bouquets for the house. I like to cut the blooms about every other day. Flowers remaining on the plant will develop into seed pods. It's a good idea to remove the flowers before this happens because you want the plant's energy to go into creating more blossoms, not seed.
For more gardening tips and garden design ideas visit www.PAllenSmith.com.
|
Salad Gardens
Salad Gardens
P. Allen Smith April 2008 Blog
Salad Garden
Each spring I eagerly anticipate starting what I call my salad garden. The season’s cool temperatures are ideal for growing some of my favorite greens. I grow plenty of arugula and a wide range of leafy salad greens, such as my favorite Buttercrunch lettuce in my raised bed vegetable garden.
For a little bit of a jump on the season, I like to start my salad garden with young transplants that I purchase from a local garden center. But since lettuce germinates so easily, I also sow seeds for a second crop. In no time my vegetable bed will be full of delicious, crisp lettuce.
Lettuce and other cool weather crops such as green onions, radishes, English peas and broccoli will germinate as soon as the soil begins to warm a bit.
Many salad greens grow so quickly I can harvest several crops by planting the seeds every two weeks before it is time to plant the warm season vegetables such as tomatoes, peppers and squash.
If you don''t have room for raised beds or a vegetable garden, don’t despair. You might try growing some salad greens in containers. Just sprinkle a few seeds in containers filled with potting soil, lightly cover the seed, keep the soil moist and place the containers in the full sun. Before you know it, you’ll be cutting fresh greens for your table.
|
Grow LIghts
Grow LIghts
Grow Lights It seems like it's always a challenge for me keeping houseplants looking their best and that's particularly the case during the winter. You see, during the winter months, there's not as much natural light available to plants. That's why I resort to using artificial light like the professionals use to get them over the hump.
One of the most popular ways to artificially light plants is with florescent lighting. These tubes stay cooler than regular light bulbs and will not burn plants if they're put close to them.
What's great about this lighting set up is that you can do it at home. All it takes is a little bit of table space, a florescent light fixture and some chain. There's nothing to it.
Attach the chain to a couple of ceiling hooks and then just connect it to the fixture. Look for tubes that are specifically manufactured for use as plant grow lights.
I like to place my plants in large shallow dishes of gravel. This keeps me from over watering. And as the water evaporates from around the gravel, it increases the humidity.
This is the perfect way to give houseplants that little extra bit of light through the winter. And hey, closer to spring, I'll use this same system to start my seedlings.
For more gardening ideas and tips visit my website http://www.pallensmith.com
|
Broccoli
Broccoli
Broccoli
I really don't have a lot of space in my vegetable garden, but I always save a little room for broccoli. Since it's a cool weather crop, like its cousins, cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts. It can be planted very early, long before things like tomatoes, beans and corn. In fact, broccoli can even take freezing temperatures and keep on growing. To grow broccoli, you need well-drained soils and plenty of organic matter worked into it, like compost or peat moss. Also, make sure you feed them with a well-balanced fertilizer. These plants have very shallow root systems, so mulching can hold in moisture and also help keep weeds down. I like to plant my vegetables in blocks. It makes it easy to cover them up if we have a cold snap. And, it also makes it easy to plant them. As far as my broccoli plants go, I space transplants about ten to twelve inches apart. For a second crop, I like to sow a few broccoli seeds between the plants. They'll germinate while the young plants are maturing. So after the original plants are harvested; the new crop will soon follow. It usually takes from sixty to eighty-five days to go from seedlings, to harvest.
For more gardening ideas and tips visit my website http://www.pallensmith.com
|
Easy Vegetable Garden
Easy Vegetable Garden
Easy Vegetable Garden
Everyone's interested in saving time and money. Now, you might not think that this applies to growing vegetables in your own backyard, but it can. Soaker hoses, weed barriers and mulch work together to make caring for your garden a snap.
Once you get the soil prepared put a soaker hose in place. Just snake the hoses about eighteen to twenty inches apart through the bed. These hoses actually sweat water and will keep the soil moist and keep the foliage of your plants dry.
Next, put down weed barrier. It's a nylon based product and it's great because it allows the moisture and air in, but keeps the weeds out. Unroll it across the your beds making sure there's plenty of overlap so there's no chance of a gap occurring over the season. When you set out your plants, just cut the fabric with a sharp knife. And for seeds, I just make a long slit and plant the seeds along the cut.
Finally mulch with wheat straw. Wheat straw is virtually weed free and it will keep the roots cool and the weed barrier in place.
The great thing about this approach to a vegetable garden is that it's always in place. But, I think it's a good idea to alternate where you plant your vegetables from year to year, to stay one step ahead of the pests.
For more gardening ideas and tips visit my website http://www.pallensmith.com.
|
Cactus Houseplants
Cactus Houseplants
Cactus Houseplants
It's interesting how plants come in and out of fashion like many other things such as decorating styles and food. In the plant world cacti have seen a resurgence of late and I say hurrah!
There's a reason these have become so popular. They are very easy to take care of. And when you think you've seen them all, look again. The range is amazing.
These plants are as tough as they look. They are virtually indestructible.
If you grow cacti, you'll find that they are flexible when it comes to light. They'll take artificial light. They'll also flourish in conditions that take full hot, direct sun; conditions that would normally blister the foliage of leafy plants.
When it comes to watering, cacti really don't take much at all. You just want to moisten the soil once it dries out, and never let them stand in water. It's the kiss of death.
The great thing about cacti is when you go on vacation for a couple of weeks and come home, they're still happy.
For more gardening ideas and tips visit my website http://www.pallensmith.com.
|
Edible Flowers
Edible Flowers
Edible Flowers
So often people are surprised that many flowers are actually edible. Take the brightly colored nasturtium for example. It has a very distinct almost peppery, spicy flavor, which makes it a unique addition to any salad. Squash blossoms might not have much flavor, but they are tasty when stuffed with vegetables and cheese. And flowers can be used for more than just a garnish. They can be candied, frozen in ice cubes to dress up a drink, added to vinegars or blended into a cheese spread.
Points to Consider • Before you go out and start grazing on blooms there are a few things to consider.
• It is important to check 2 or 3 sources to make sure flowers are edible. Check out Cornell University's Poisonous Plant Page. It’s a good reference for what NOT to eat.
• Check which parts of the flower are edible and if the flower is known to cause any type of reaction. For instance, some people are sensitive to the pollen in composite flowers such as chrysanthemums, dandelions and calendula. Some flowers are okay in small amounts, but may be trouble if eaten in large quantities. And some flower parts just taste bad.
• It is advisable to only eat organically grown flowers because pesticides can last for months on a plant.
• If you can eat the fruit of a plant you can almost always eat its flower.
• Pick the flowers while it is cool but as close to the time as you are going to use them as possible. And always check for insects.
• Avoid flowers that are not fully open or past their prime.
Common Edible Flowers Apple Bee Balm Borage Calendula (petals only) Chives Chrysanthemum (petals only) Dandelions Daylily Gardenia Hibiscus Lemon Nasturtium Pansy Redbud Rose (petals only) Scented Geranium Viola
For more gardening ideas and tips visit my website http://www.pallensmith.com.
|
Growing Tomatoes
Growing Tomatoes
Growing Tomatoes
Producing the perfect tomato has become an obsession for many gardeners and doling out advice on the subject is a national pastime. Truth be told, there is really nothing to it if you follow a few rules of thumb.
The best time to plant tomatoes seedlings is a few weeks after the last frost date in your area, when the soil has had a chance to warm up and night temperatures stay above 50 degrees F. In my zone 7 garden, located in the upper South, I plant tomatoes in May.
If you are going to grow your tomatoes from seed, start them indoors 5 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost.
When you purchase tomato plants from a nursery select those that are about 10 to 12 inches tall with a deep green color. You should avoid any that have blooms, holey leaves or crowded root systems.
Tomatoes need full sun to really thrive. Site them in an area that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight a day. To steer clear of problems with disease choose a new location in your garden each year.
The soil should be medium-rich, loose and well drained with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0.
How far apart you space the plants depends on the type of tomato you've selected. Dwarf varieties should be spaced about 12 inches apart in a row. If you plan on staking your plants, space them about 24 inches apart. Set sprawling, indeterminate tomatoes about 36 to 48 inches apart.
Plant your seedlings about 1 inch deeper than they are sitting in the nursery container. This will help strengthen the root system and a better root system means healthier plants. Just be sure to remove any leaves below the soil line.
To discourage cutworms from taking out your young transplants, you should wrap the base of each seedling with a piece of aluminum foil. You can also protect them with a cardboard collar placed over the seedling and pushed 1 inch into the ground. A paper towel roll cut into sections works pretty well.
Once you have planted your tomatoes keep them well watered until the roots are established. After that, deep soak them every 4 to 7 days. If it is hot and dry you may need to water every day, especially if they are in containers.
When you water, take care to not splash soil onto the leaves and stem as this promotes disease. And don't skimp on the mulch. A good layer of mulch, 2 to 3 inches, will help keep the soil consistently moist, cutting down on blossom end rot, as well as prevent weeds from taking over. Just keep the mulch away from the crown of the plant.
Feed your tomatoes once a month with a blend that is high in phosphorous and low in nitrogen. Too much nitrogen will result in lots of leaves, but not much fruit. A ratio of 5-10-5 is good. Start fertilizing when the fruits first start to develop and stop as they reach maturity.
By following these simple guidelines you can make this the best tomato season ever.
For more gardening ideas and tips visit my website http://www.pallensmith.com.
|
Mulching
Mulching
Mulching
I’m always looking for ways to cut down on time consuming work in the garden. One of the biggest chores for me is keeping weeds out of the flower beds. So I learned a long time ago to apply generous amounts of mulch.
If I can apply it early enough, many of the weed seeds won’t even germinate and for those that do come up, they’re weak and are easy to deal with.
There are lots of different kinds of mulches out there. Everything from tree bark such as pine, cypress and hardwood to things like pine needles and straw. Whatever you use, layer it in about two to three inches thick.
Now if you want to further cut down on weeds, you can use a filter fabric. Now I think this is better than black plastic because it allows water to percolate through it and gives your soil a chance to breathe.
Mulching is a good way to maintain a consistent level of moisture in the soil and this can be important for seedlings and young transplants. The mulch I’m using is a well rotted pine bark, an excellent source of humus. And I’m applying it directly onto the top of my beds so not only am I keeping weeds down and maintaining a consistent level of moisture, I’m also improving the quality of my soil.
Once the mulch is down on your beds, it can give your garden a beautiful, finished look. However, if you want to encourage some of those old fashioned, hearty volunteers to reseed themselves such as foxglove, larkspur and cornflower, be careful not too smother the seedlings with mulch.
For more gardening ideas and tips visit my website http://www.pallensmith.com.
|
Sunflower Arranging
Sunflower Arranging
Sunflower Arranging
We often call that last breath of summer Indian Summer and to me, there is no better flower to symbolize this time than the sunflower. It just radiates warmth and it's one of our most spectacular North American wildflowers. The variations you can find in sunflowers are amazing.
I think sunflowers look best when grouped together and used in a simple arrangement. They are so strong and bold they really don't need support from anything else.
One reason I like sunflowers is that they can make very effective dried flowers. They can be dried by simply hanging fresh ones upside down in the garage. I had an idea to combine a few dried sunflowers with other autumn blooms and grasses to make a handsome door arrangement.
I used dried sunflowers, plumes of wild grasses, seed heads of some purple coneflowers, a little crabapple and some dried blackberry lily. But many things will work.
After the fall season has passed, I can hang my arrangement in a tree for the birds to enjoy. They will love all the berries and seeds.
Now the sunflower is a flower you can utilize in three ways, fresh in summer, dried in the autumn and as a source for food for wildlife in the winter.
For more gardening ideas and tips visit my website http://www.pallensmith.com.
|
Larkspur
Larkspur
Larkspur
There are a lot of ways to enjoy the beauty of flowers; in the garden, as fresh cut flowers or even dried. Larkspur is a flower that can be enjoyed all three ways. The great thing about larkspur is that it grows in tall spikes, and the colors can range from dark purple, to lavender, to pink, to pure white. The name larkspur comes from the spur on the backside of the flower.
Larkspur is one of the easiest annuals you can grow from seeds. Below the Mason Dixon Line sow the seeds in late fall; northern climates should sow larkspur in early spring.
Now, another great thing about larkspur is that once it flowers it will set lots of seeds and come back in bloom next year. So, it's really a hearty and very reliable volunteer.
For more gardening ideas and tips visit my website http://www.pallensmith.com.
|
Herbal Vinegars
Herbal Vinegars
Herbal Vinegars
With the end of summer and the onset of fall, I'm always looking for ways to preserve the flavor of some of my herbs. One of the best ways I've found over the years is to use something as unlikely as vinegar.
Vinegar can be good for you. And it has lots of applications in the kitchen. And because of it's high acidity, it makes a very good preservative.
When you're trying to preserve the subtle flavors of herbs, you'll find that some of the best vinegars for this are those made from wines. You can use white vinegar and cider vinegars, but they can be strong and sometimes overpower the delicate aroma.
Whatever vinegar you use, you'll want to make sure it has at least five percent acidity. And when it comes to the flavor, that's entirely up to you. Any combination of herbs will work. For example, I'm putting together a garlic and basil vinegar and the recipe is really simple.
I begin by putting one full cup of packed fresh herbs and three crushed cloves of garlic into a quart jar. I wash the basil and let it dry completely before putting it into the jar. You see, any water can cloud the vinegar.
Next I fill the jar to near full and bruise the leaves with a wooden spoon. The bruising helps the flavor of the herb integrate with the vinegar. Now I'll cover this with a piece of plastic, put it in a cool, dark place for four to six weeks and shake it occasionally.
Then I'll just strain the solution into a hot, sterilized bottle and put a twig of the herb in it for identification.
For more gardening ideas and tips visit my website http://www.pallensmith.com.
|
Cooking Sage
Cooking Sage
Cooking Sage
When I think of the essential aromas and tastes of fall, sage always comes to mind. It is an essential ingredient in my grandmother's stuffing recipe and it's a delicious compliment to pork and game.
In cooking, the leaves can be used fresh or dried but remember that just a little sage goes a long way.
If you are using dried sage, it's helpful to know that it only takes half as much as when using fresh. You will find that dried sage will lose its best flavor after 6 - 8 months on the shelf. Of course, any herb will do the same in time.
Sage is a beautiful addition to the garden for it’s slivery gray foliage. I also grow the variegated golden sage as well as a tri-colored variety.
This standard cooking sage is just one member of the large family of plants called Salvia. And from these lots of new introductions have found their way into our gardens. They've become more popular over the past few years for their colorful blooms and ability to withstand hot, dry conditions.
Now if you want to attract hummingbirds to your garden, plant some salvia or sage next spring; they'll love the flowers.
For more gardening ideas and tips visit my website http://www.pallensmith.com.
|
Live Christmas Tree Care
Live Christmas Tree Care
Live Christmas Tree Care
I think live Christmas trees are a wonderful idea if you have the space and climate to grow them in your garden. Unlike cut trees, these living trees have an opportunity to flourish for many more Christmases if they are cared for properly.
• Success growing an evergreen tree begins with selection. You need to purchase one that will thrive in the growing conditions that exist in your garden. Live Christmas trees must be planted soon after the holiday, so they're best suited for areas with mild winters. • Find out how big the tree will get so you'll know the best location to plant it. •To help prepare it for indoor conditions first place the tree in an outbuilding for a few days. Before you bring it inside, slip the tree into a decorative container to hide the nursery pot or balled and burlapped roots. • When you do move it inside, you want to make sure it's protected from extreme conditions. Keep your tree away from sources of heat, like fireplaces and vents. And if you use Christmas lights, limit the time you have them on so they don't heat up the tree. • You shouldn't keep living trees in the house for more than seven days and when it comes to watering, just keep the root ball consistently moist. • When you get ready to take the tree back outside, it will need to acclimate to outdoor conditions. Place it in a sheltered, unheated location such as a garage or tool shed for several days before planting it in the garden. • Now since most Christmas tree type evergreens don't like wet feet, make sure it is planted in an area where the soil is well drained.
For more gardening ideas and tips visit my website http://www.pallensmith.com.
|